Geneva has a population of about 200,000, about half the size of Tampa. Its located on the farthest western edge of Lake Geneva, near the French border. The city has a French feel, not German or Italian, like other areas we visited. There is more French than German spoken, but almost everyone speaks English. We chose this as our gateway city and began and ended our three weeks here. You can learn all you need to know in this City Guide to Geneva.
What is Geneva known for?
It is an international city, home to the Red Cross, the World Health Organization, and the United Nations. They make watches, pocket knives, and chocolate. The buildings are covered with names like Rolex and Patek Philippe.
How was the Weather?
Our trip began in August when the average temperatures are 78°/56°; in September, it drops to 70°/50°. The expected rainfall is 7-8 days/month. This was not our experience; we had higher than average temperatures; it was almost 90º when we landed and didn’t get much below 80º until after the sun went down, when we were asleep in the room, not ideal!
Travel Notes
What to See
My Favorite Things to Do in Geneva
Visit the Jet d’Eau (Water Jet)
In the middle of the harbor, there is a 450′ stream of water shooting into the air. It began life as a way to reduce the water pressure during times of low usage, but it became popular. It’s been a tourist attraction since 1891, and in the 1930s, they began lighting the jet. Now, it is Geneva’s most famous landmark and makes a beautiful focal point as you walk along the water.
Ride the Wheel
We did ride the Wheel, which Joe was reluctant to do until he saw the sign prohibiting the removal of bras. He thought that should be read as a suggestion or an encouragement, really. Then he was all in. It was a beautiful night, and we got three trips around for 14 CHF each.
Visit L’horloge Fleurie (the Flower Clock)
The clock was designed in 1955 to honor the city’s heritage in the watch-making industry. It’s a popular landmark to visit while walking along the water in the evening. There is a tourist train, which would be great for kids but a little silly for adults. The waterfront reminded me of the Magic Kingdom in Orlando.
Walk through Old Town
Wander through the alleyways and passages in Switzerland’s largest Old Town. We had dinner at one of the oldest restaurants, Les Armures, then strolled through the courtyards as the temperatures cooled to the 80s, still very warm! Geneva was one of the major centers of the Protestant Reformation in 1523, and there is a lot of history here. Also, Mary Anne Evans, the novelist and poet, who wrote under the pen name of George Eliot spent time in Geneva in 1850.
Buy Chocolate
The Swiss are known for their chocolate, which I can confirm is delicious. When you go to the shop, they offer samples! Hooray! My favorite is Läderach’s FrischSchoggi, sample squares in a stack. Try the sample stack and decide on your favorites. Then, buy the favorites by the pound.
Museums
Located in Old Town
Saint Pierre Cathedral: In addition to climbing the tower to enjoy the views, you can visit the archaeological site.
Maison Tavel: this museum is located in the oldest private residence in the city and contains a scale model of what Geneva looked like in 1850!
International Museum of the Reformation
Farther afield
The Palais des Nations: learn about the work of the United Nations to secure peace throughout the world. Don’t forget your passport! This tour needs to be reserved months in advance.
International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent
Patek Philippe Museum celebrates 500 years of watchmaking.
The CERN is the European Center for Nuclear Research and is open for individual tours.
Where to Eat
Restaurant Les Armures
Located in the heart of the old town, it is a historic restaurant with traditional foods. However, we had a hot day, and fondue was not a good idea. Apparently, Hillary and Bill Clinton ate here once; there was a plaque on the wall. We ate outside in the courtyard; see the website and the menu.
This was where we first learned that a glass of wine in Switzerland is one dl, that is 3.38 ounces! It is not even close to an American pour which at the Yardhouse in Palm Beach Gardens, for example, is either 6 oz or 9 oz. When I saw 3 oz, I thought it was a joke. I ended up buying wine for the room at the COOP; there is one in every train station. It was mainly to save the server from all those trips, but also, it’s embarrassing to have the 5th wine, even though it’s less wine than having 2 – 9 oz glasses at the Yardhouse; just saying…
Cottage Cafe
Before getting on the train out of town, we had lunch at a lovely cafe near the water, filled with locals. It is in a small park overlooking the gothic Brunswick Monument. The food was delicious; we ordered salads, which were fresh and beautiful, perfect for the hot day. See the website and the menu.
Where to Stay
Eastwest Hotel
This small (air-conditioned) boutique hotel has 41 rooms and is conveniently located between the waterfront and the train station. It is a short walk to the Old Town, and the hotel provides all guests with a FREE Transportation Pass and a map with a city guide to Geneva. We stayed here our first night in Geneva on Rue des Pâquis 6. website
Hilton Geneva Hotel & Conference Centre
This huge American hotel has three restaurants, which I really didn’t need after snacks and drinks in the executive lounge. It was a nice way to transition back to the US after our time in Switzerland. We stayed here our last night for the convenience of being near the Geneva Airport with a free shuttle. website
Getting Around
The map below is marked with the major highlights of the City Guide to Geneva. It’s totally walkable. To see a more detailed tourist map, CLICK HERE!
Ferry Boats
It is possible to travel on Lake Geneva by ferry and visit the towns on the lakefront, passing into France, or just down the shore. In general, the boats take longer, but not always. Here is a link to the CGN Timetables. The N1, N2, and N3 routes will appear if you search on the SBB Transportation App.
Arriving by Air
My preferred airline was Delta when I made this reservation, and it was an excellent price for a round-trip ticket from JFK to Geneva.
My bag didn’t make it, and Delta did not have a presence at the airport and relied on a third party to provide baggage service, which is a misnomer. The line was very long and slow, and I had to wait because you must have a claim number to track your lost bag. I have also decided to put airtags in my bags in the future. Of course, this can happen anywhere, but it was a disappointing experience all around.
Getting from the Airport to Town
We took a taxi from the airport to the hotel because we were tired and didn’t know better. It cost about 50 CHF and took about 30 minutes. The train would have taken 7 minutes and cost about 11 CHF. Now that I know the train system, I would take the train! Here are all the tricks I learned in the City Guide to Geneva.
READ MORE: Using the Swiss SBB Transportation App
Transportation Passes
We purchased a Swiss Flex Pass to cover our transportation and museum visits for 15 days of our three weeks in Switzerland. We did not activate the pass in Geneva because the hotel provided us with a free transportation pass while in the city. As it turned out, we walked everywhere mentioned in this city guide to Geneva and didn’t need either pass.
READ MORE: Choosing the Right Swiss Pass
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